Nylon jams in Cetus hotend

cetus. Help Section

peter101 3月27日，2020年，下午8:08 #1

I am printing using the newer metal hot end but with the original 10CFM cooling fan and Nylon is the first filament material that I have given up on.

PC，碳纤维PC，PP，PETG，ABS，柔性等所有打印。
尼龙12将在大约10 c ov不断挤压er the Nylon suggested upper temperature range but it foams or bubbles as it extrudes so the print has no strength. This happens even if the Nylon is seriously vacuum dried at 1/10,000 of an atmosphere. Lower the extrusion temperatures the Nylon jams in the heater.

只是想知道是否有任何人，包括Tiertime，已经成功地用这种热门打印尼龙。
-Peter.

newtwallow. March 28, 2020, 3:33am #2

你在用钢喷嘴吗？我在带有桥梁尼龙的不同打印机上完全相同的症状。我还彻底干燥了长丝，并在5度的温度增加到20℃，过去没有运气。我切换到黄铜喷嘴，并在推荐的设置之后打印完美。

我是cetus的新手，我只是想说谢谢，彼得，为你的知识分享。

peter101 March 28, 2020, 8:39pm #3

别客气。
带钢喷嘴的新加热器。我用更换装置进行了一些测试印刷品，并将其与原始破损挤出机的旧版打印进行比较。我认为较旧的挤出机产生了更好的打印，所以我修复了它，现在使用两者的零件。基本上它是具有新加热器块的旧挤出机。旧挤出机修复需要车床和一些小球轴承。不是火箭科学，但你确实需要车床。
打印300℃，您需要更好的热绝缘围绕加热器块和喷嘴。改进的绝缘需要大约4分钟达到300℃，而无需改善的隔热绝缘，最高加热器温度达到约260℃，在5分钟后升温。
-Peter.
PIC清理灯丝路径。

冷端衬垫塑料管或???

Jason-TT March 30, 2020, 3:15am #4

如果您打印尼龙并发现挤出时的长丝鼓泡。这是吸收水的证据，尼龙吸收水是非常常见的。这与Hotend无关。我觉得你干燥的方式灯丝无效，尝试使用烤箱烘烤灯丝一段时间。

peter101 March 30, 2020, 7:01pm #5

嗨杰森，我希望修复很容易。

I happen to have a two stage, oil sealed, 50 liter/minute scientific vacuum pump. The vacuum reached is below 1/10,000 of an atmosphere which is much better than heating to eliminate moisture, plus low vapor pressure organic compounds, and air that has dissolved or diffused into the filament etc.

我没有足够敏感的敏感，以在干燥之前和后重量阀芯，以测量除去了多少水。我使用的最佳指示器是使用X10光学放大倍率，并检查在290℃下印刷的清除未经混合的Hod聚碳酸酯的清洗系列。在真空干燥后的前16小时内，我没有得到任何泡沫，第二天我可以看到净化线上的一些小气泡。真空干尼龙只要我不超过最大挤出温度就没有气泡。有趣的是高于最大挤出温度的快速尼龙化学分解并形成气泡。

In the new cetus extruder, I think the Nylon melting point position between the cold and hot end just happens at a bad point and the Nylon sticks to something. I would do more experiments but I don’t think the white tube liner in my cold end will survive any more Nylon printing tests.

很清楚，我可以在超过260℃下加热和挤出尼龙，它仍然没有气泡，但在移动喷嘴并开始打印净化线时，它仍然没有气泡。在270℃下挤出它没有堵塞，但你得到一个充满气泡的印花，没有强度，所以没有非常有用的印刷品。

It would be good to know the maximum service temperature of the white liner material to be able to melt out filament jams!!!

最后，可以通过简单地改变冷端的空气流动，您可以将熔体位置上升或下降到足以修复尼龙粘性问题。

Best Wishes,

Peter

Jason-TT April 1, 2020, 9:04am #6

Hello Peter,

If you are sure the filament are dry, then I think the filament likely not compatible with the hotend.
We have tried esun, polymaker and Taulman nylons, we found the Taulman nylon (forgot which type) was very sticky in the hotend and cannot be extruded. The eSun and Polymaker filaments have no problems.

kirkdis33 April 13, 2020, 1:16pm #7

嗨彼得，

working here with a MK2 with stock brass nozzles and Nylon works great with mine. Even Nylon/GF combo printed nice. What I changed two years ago was the fan position. So I don´t cool the tip and the middle piece of the hotend only the top part next to the motor. Maybe this could be a worth a try…

techsalad 2020年4月24日，上午3:10 #8

嗨伙计，

一段时间后，我弄乱了忍者犰狳灯丝，我发现股票加热器块设置的温度耐受性太紧了。打印柔性面料，厚度为0.4mm厚，我需要一个+/- 2摄氏度的临时容差。我安装了一个上喷嘴稳定器柱，使喷嘴中的热区降低，并允许移除将加热器块安装到金属支架上的两个管。即使管和螺栓是不锈钢，它们也从加热器块吸收热量，从喷嘴的侧面取得更差的东西，以缺乏足够的热量，以均匀熔化的长丝。我还减少了击中喷嘴尖端的冷却。

Cheers,
布伦特

techsalad April 24, 2020, 4:03am#9

来自另一个帖子......

“需要的速度” - 一种Mod-Package在Cetus上增加了印刷精度

I found a manufacturer of PTFE tubing that reduces those amounts of friction. It’s the Capricorn XS brand. They have a 4mmOD x 1.90mmID PTFE tubing… I highly recommend the Capricorn XS tubing, it’s pure PTFE and is very slippery. The 1.90mmID versus 2.00mmID also reduces friction by some amount, especially flexible filament. The XS type is rated at 340deg Celsius. They also have the XS type in 3.00mmOD x 2.00mmID, this is the size in the upper neck of your nozzle. I believe the tubing that comes with a standard nozzle is only rated to 200deg Celsius, so if you are printing at above 200deg Celsius, then the tubing is degrading at an advanced rate and over-time will contaminate the filament as the tubing burns, so frequent cleaning is required, by removing the tubing and wiping clean the black grunge of burnt filament and burnt tubing. The other thing happening before the burning is deformation, so it will no longer line-up with the surface of the lower brass part of the nozzle as engineered by Tiertime. There is very little room for error here, if the nozzle ptfe tubing is not perfectly square at the bottom end, there will be filament delivery issues. If the nozzle tubing is too long it will flare and choke the filament creating filament delivery issues. The problems created when using a standard PTFE tubing above the rated 200deg Celsius are numerous…basically most of the problems reported by Cetus owners when filament is not delivered to the print-bed as expected.

如果喷嘴中有黑色烧伤残留物，则存在未对准的东西和/或材料的温度额定值不符合喷嘴的所需工作温度。

一种简单的方式来监测喷嘴的健康是注意到灯丝如何退出喷嘴尖端，如果它出于完全圆形和直线，那么在喷嘴内部可能会好的，如果它卷曲或突发......好......事情不是进展在你的喷嘴里面。

peter101 May 7, 2020, 4:06am ＃10

谢谢你的建议。

我测试了原始的MK2加热器和更换MK2.5钢喷嘴版本。不幸的是，也不会打印尼龙，所以我正在继续前进。

在积极的一面，我很擅长清洁巨大的喷嘴堵塞。

两张真空干燥尼龙长丝的照片。首先是排气管中的水气凝结，第二个是经过一小时的镇流器出血。镇流器空气干燥油，所以可以获得比水的蒸气压得更好的真空。第二张照片中的真空在1到10个Pascals之间。
-Peter.

！！