最初发表在:https://www.cetus3d.com/product/cetus-fan-shroud-with-wind-door/

这对V2 hoten迷裹尸布d, also compatible with V1 hotend.

如果您想使用V2 Hotend或使用用于MK3的自动纤维探针,这是一个Ensiential升级。

嗨杰森,你能基于原来的风扇罩吗?只需添加风门。对于那些不使用液化传感器的人。

Hi@arnold., I have designed a few air-ducts for the Cetus3D that fit my heavily modded MKII. This one I’m uploading should fit a stock printer, might be a touch too wide but I have no way of knowing for sure. It’s designed for high-speed printing at 100+ mm’s per sec. Let me know if it works for you.

0.40 Nozzle / 0.20LayerHeight / 0.40LayerWidth
DuctLowerV0p022 001 Cetus3DMKII.zip(260.9 KB)

cheers,
布伦特
Technology Salad

@techsalad,嗨布伦特谢谢你分享这个,我很快就会平息!干杯。

@arnold., if the fit is close but needs to be tweaked let me know and I’ll make small changes. If you’re wondering why the rail-side is lacking any air control, there’s another duct for the other side that cools the motor, the filament entry point and also directs any filament shavings away from the filament entry. Filament shavings and heat-creep if the fan is turned off above 50deg C are the two main reasons for nozzle clog. I have yet to experience nozzle clog and have not cleaned a nozzle even once. Those other ducts will not fit a stock printer.

It’s important to keep the top of the heat-zone in the nozzle at same position, when the fan is turned off before the heat-cartridge has cooled sufficiently the heat creeps upward and relocates the top of the heat-zone, which is then out-of-range for the temperature you extrude the plastic creating a semi-hardened top to the melted plastic below and clunk…clunk…clunk the motor churns to break through that semi-hardened plastic.

编辑:如果其他人正在阅读此螺纹,我也应该提及,与长丝刨花相比,丝状的水分可能更经常经历。喷嘴热带的水分聚集成蒸汽泡并爆发喷射熔化的塑料向上(和向下),向上突破通过热区滴落的顶部围绕固体长丝的熔化塑料,增加了直径,随后也产生了直径much friction for the motor’s available torque and/or a larger diameter filament being forced into the narrower opening of the heat chamber and clunk…clunk…clunk the motor churns.

I don’t recommend using a tool that abrasively taints the slippery surface of the upper nozzle interior if cleaning the nozzle to unclog the filament pathway. Instead, increase the temperature just beyond the filament’s max temp without running the fan cooling system and use the extrude function within the maintenance menu in UpStudio. Let the filament start extruding and after 10-15 seconds turn the fan on and let it run through an extrude cycle. Then, with the fan running, perform another extrude cycle or two. When finished a few extrude cycles, leave the fan running til the temperature is below 50deg C (I wait til less than 40degC for all print-jobs, always). Depending on the severity of the clunking, re-calibrate the print-bed level and check the hot-end mount fastening system. The screws used to mount the hot-end have threads too fine for the application and the violent clunking.

cheers,
布伦特
Technology Salad

@techsalad, is this how it’s supposed to be mounted?

@arnold., yes… looks good from this angle. My extruder setup is re-positioned for speed and accuracy. This ducting allows for speeds in excess of 100mm/sec using eSUN PLA+.

@arnold., I’ve been developing an interchangeable duct system. So you’ll be able to switch ducting based on the material being extruded without using fasteners. On-the-fly, just pause the print and slip a different duct configuration onto the fan.

@arnold.Oh geez, forgot your nozzle/hot-end is sitting roughly 5mm higher than mine in relation to the fan. I have 8mm height clearance for sequential island printing. So, this ducting may not give you a very wide cooling effect being so close to the nozzle-tip height, especially noticeable on larger models with walls between the nozzle tip and the focused air stream.

@techsalad, I’d appreciate a photo of your setup:眨眼:by the way, I sort of noticed less fan noise with this duct. Is that your experience too?

@arnold., yes there is less fan noise. It does not impede the air-flow like other ducting systems I’ve seen and used. Other ducts try to redirect the air-flow downwards using a very steep angle… almost 90degrees to the fan-face creating too much blow-back.

If I post a pic of my setup it’ll create too many questions:眨眼:

一旦我清理原型,我计划很快释放Mod-Package。有11个修改稳定Z轴和Y轴。挤出机设置有显着的变化,进一步将挤出机电机从热端口/喷嘴设置隔离,为电机,热端和冷却系统产生可调节的高度和对准系统。挤出机电动机具有大量的冷却,允许电动机在整个打印作业中提供最大扭矩。

There will be a contest at the time of the release with great prizes!

cheers,
布伦特

A few recent prints, 0.4 nozzle, 0.20 layer height printed at 90mm/s except the pic with the coupler and nut printed at 65mm/s




1就像

@techsaladwhat are you slicing and printing with? I am having huge issues at resent getting anything to work with my TinyFab equipped MkII

@brantwinterusing Simplify3D to slice and UPStudio v2.6.20.627 on stock MKII electronics and hardware. The only changes to my stock MKII are the bolt-on mods to stiffen the z/y, and the bolt-on replacement mods in the y completely changing the extruder-motor orientation allowing for the huge accuracy improvements.

@techsaladHi Brent, will your website get updates soon?

@arnold.嗨Arnold,我很乐意张贴所有的Mod和方法,允许这种实惠的打印机从悬臂式打印机中疯狂的精度。并且打印速度增加很疯狂!

I suppose I must provide a little background to understand the snails-pace this project is suffering from…

四个teen years ago a car accident completely changed my life and many doctors said I would never work again. But as we humans do, we survive, adapt, and if a passion is strong enough… we sometimes overcome our disabilities for a few hours a day. My days are broken-up into three or four 1.5 hour sessions of being vertical, the rest of my conscious time is horizontal meditating to lessen the effects of extensive soft-tissue damage the length of my spine. Some days I’m blessed to enjoy a little more time to think past the pain, but those days are rare.

该MOD项目采用强大的Z轴加强件启动,必须​​是螺栓开启且易于安装。我的Z轴是坚实的,现在最薄弱的链接现在是不锈钢基础一切都附着在一起,但我也有解决这个问题的解决方案。Z轴MOD肯定改善了印刷质量,但不足以满足我。

我的注意力集中在轴结构。四个more mods were created, and the print quality improved and higher print-speeds attainable. But again, I was not completely happy. I already knew the extruder motor ran too-hot and being a two-phase stepper it had to rotate far more than a four-phase to achieve the same move. I thought I should publish my findings to this point to help others with their printer woes, started to organize the mods and document methods/procedures but the pain quickly invaded… not enough distraction from the pain. Focusing on the extruder setup got me back into the zone of less pain, so I dealt with the axial torque and the overheating extruder motor. Rock-solid motor mount, waaaay less heat and more torque… excellent. Even higher print-speeds, this is where I broke through the 90mm/sec limit, printing faster with very little loss of quality-of-print. The surface artifacts had decreased substantially at this point, but yeah…still felt there was more I could tackle and solve.

到了这个项目中,我已经向这个小型打印机倾倒了一个时间为这个小型打印机创造/工程解决方案,并忘了我的金融稳定的成本,因为残疾人们绝望地追求更好的质量 -生活。这个项目给了我这么多的痛苦时刻......我已经沉迷于产品开发和原型。所以,正如你可以想象的那样,没有别的事情在这里完成!

I kinda stumbled upon the next mod within the extruder setup, but wow… I mean double-wow …the quality-of-print is what you see above in the photos I posted. Am I happy yet?? …I’m frickin’ bouncin’-off-the-walls happy!! Maybe I can hire a housekeeper happy!

So here we are, I have a bunch of mods that make this printer sing, and dread the next step because this process of publishing is going to take away the distractions that allow me moments-of-freedom from the pain.

Is there more to create/engineer and solve… yes, the heat-zone is too long, I’d like at least 12mm’s of sequential printing, a reliable automatic bed leveler, an electronics hat that does not trap heat, reliable flexible filament printing, an alignment jig for x/y/z…etc etc … I have many on the list! Do I already have solutions… yes. Do I have freedom from the box-of-pain… only when I’m in the engineering and/or creation mode.

它不长的直到我发布了mod-package,我已经停止了任何其他mod的开发。我尽可能快地努力清理原型并获得一些文档。

cheers,
布伦特

Hi Brent, thanks for sharing a bit of your background! Your prints look really amazing and I’m very looking forward to see how you achieved all of this! I did some minor mods and improvements on my Cetus MK3 setup, but mostly peripheral ones. I can totally relate how designing/prototyping pulls you in a zone and happy that it helps you push your pain in the background for a bit! All the best to you in the meantime!

PS:您是否可以在您的个人资料中添加链接到您的网站?我发现它有麻烦......

1就像

@superhans.,个人资料是更新的......我试图避免对网站的任何关注,它非常基本,而不是交互式。

Tks for taking the time to understand why this project has been so slooooow to publish, wish I could wave-my-hand andpoof…done …and many folks unleashing the full-potential of this little printer.

I have another printed model pic to share…yesterday I mounted a .2mm nozzle which I hadn’t used since purchasing the printer last year and not since sparking-up Simplify3D. The printer’s firmware is compensating for something…after calibrating z, and loading a gcode file from S3D, UpStudio was printing in air at .10LHeight. Normally, I print without any software tricks, rafts, supports etc etc… just a brim on an optical mirror with green painter’s tape and the extra length of the green painter’s tape is sandwiching the mirror to the stock build-plate with 20+ brass shims in-between. After offsetting z by .10mm …still printing in air, lacking the time investigate I printed at .15LHeight and .25LWidth…just barely tho. I’ll post the pic soon, need a flat-black background to show-off the crisp edges.

cheers,
布伦特

@techsaladThanks! Will keep an eye on your page and any posts here in the forum!:slight_smile:

Cheers,

Andreas

First few prints failed as mentioned in above post and having very little experience using a .20mmNozzle 10mmLayerHeight .25LineWidth, my build-platform leveling strategy required a more aggressive procedure.

从我的工程师口袋参考中取出了绿色画家胶带并在upstudio内校准了,使用了.04mm的纸张袋装......但不用担心,从永久日历中使用页面:眨眼:。每个校准点的设置...纸张几乎没有撕裂。

重新应用绿色画家胶带,用刮刀轻轻地光滑峰值和山谷。

在每个校准点的时,使用0.02mm黄铜垫片和设置在每个校准点中的9点校准......不能在垫片中移动垫片而不会撕裂和无凹坑。确认使用使用垫片确定的精确高度的校准程序。没有偏移或从精确的高度添加/减去/减去,该喷嘴高度用于S3D和Upstudio。将Dummy STL文件加载到Upstudio中并右键单击以删除所有型号。重新启动Upstudio并进行了挤出循环以检查长丝和喷嘴热区中的水分。良好的......

Next post will show the print result, please keep-in-mind I do not care about bridging fails, small artifacts resulting from layer-changes or any other surface-quality fails controlled by tweaking print-profiles in software/firmware. For me, and the scope of this project, the measure of pass/fail is determining if the hardware mods I’ve created are providing the hardware backbone of the 3D print-process allowing for extreme accuracy and higher print-speeds in excess of 100mm/sec.

Cheers,
布伦特
Technology Salad