#1

我最近买了一个上升300.在打印任何东西之前，我通过校准然后打印校准部分并进行调整。校准部分打印完全减去一个非常小的尺寸误差。然后，我用打印机附带的Tiertime Abs打印了一部分，我从Witheriverse下载，它是完美的。接下来，我用另一个制造商的ABS灯丝设计了12小时的东西。打印很棒，但我无法删除木筏。从那以后，这是一场巨大的战斗。当我用筏子打印时，筏棒令人惊讶地贴在构建板上，但部分本身在印刷和经线期间开始从角落的筏子剥离。我尝试没有筏子的打印，第一层甚至不会粘在铸造板上。为什么筏子粘得很好地粘在板上，但是没有木筏印刷的第一层没有？我现在非常沮丧。 I’ve been printing for a few years now and the experience I’m having at the moment is reminding me of the frustration I went through when I first started printing with a $200 printer. The difference is, I had low expectations for that printer and paid about $2000 less for it.

#2

所以它会从木筏上翘曲吗？

您的设置中是否有轻松剥离？

#3

是的，它翘起了筏子，容易剥离了。我经历了整个500g的tiertime abs spool，只有几个成功的印刷品。昨天我决定基本上重置一切并重新开始。我让打印机进行自动校准和喷嘴检测，我没有手动调整任何东西。我连续两个大多数成功的打印。还有一些翘曲，表面饰面是可怕的。今天我将对热门终端温度进行一些调整，因为这不是TT灯丝，看看我是否可以得到更多的改进。哦，我昨天在混合中扔了另一个变量。我用鲶鱼昨天切成了模特。我尝试为ABS创建一个新的材料配置文件，但我想要任何运气改变温度设置。 I’m going to have to either figure that out or go back to Up Studio and try it again. Since I changed multiple things at once I need to pick one slicer and then only change one variable at a time to try to get to the root cause.

#4

好的，首先，如果你的房间不是至少25℃，那就翘曲了。我不得不把毛巾放在机器上，以防止在冬天以来的翘曲，房间可以轻松获得10℃以下。我实际上是热绝缘的内饰，以便我可以打印其他灯丝品牌。

我发现55C环境内部是我可以在翘曲之前最低的内部成为ESUN ABS和ASA的问题。从打印机盖子的顶部拍摄测量100mm。然而，我换来的绝缘意味着它现在对TiVertime品牌灯丝太热，挤出机的冷端会变得太热，它会堵塞。把毛巾扔在机器上（以自己的风险），因为这对我来说是临时修复的伎俩。

我现在有一个加热器，在那里有一个PID控制器来调节温度。我认为应该适合所有单位。

Be aware that the motors in there have magnetic rotor cores that are typically rated to 85c. Higher than that can result in them loosing their magnetic strength over time. So don’t let it get too hot.

#5

Thank you, this helps quite a bit. It was definitely nowhere near that temperature in the room while I was printing. It did seem to help when I left it preheat for 1/2-hour to an hour before I started. I think I may eventually go with insulating the interior, as you did, but I’m going to give covering it a shot to see if I can get some better results that way. Thanks again!

#6

I threw a blanket over my printer and was able to get some pretty decent ABS prints. Did you add insulation to the interior of yours or did you add it to the exterior?

#7

我得到了5毫米的绝缘泡沫。它覆盖在一侧的铝箔上，另一侧粘带。看图片：

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#8

Atm I’m looking at upgrading to a e3d Titan aqua or Titan aero extruder since now I can’t print tiertime brand filament without opening the lid as the extruder cold end gets too hot.

The stock tiertime extruder is just not reliable with esun filament and it just jams too often. I want to be able to use the esun filament reliably for large quick prototyping prints without costing a fortune in 3x the price tiertime filament.

#9

Perfect! That’s almost exactly what I was picturing. Obviously, I have almost no print time on mine and don’t have any temperature data at all, but my successful print was with Zyltech ABS when I covered the printer. I don’t know what country you’re in and what shipping costs would be for you but they have very reasonably priced filament. I haven’t been able to print their ABS until now but their PLA and PETG have always printed great for me.

另一个问题。没有木筏，你有没有成功打印任何东西？我一直在努力，因为我打印了很多TPU，并且没有办法从筏子中分离。我无法让它放下一个体面的第一层。我通过在手动校准时制造过大的变化来完成一些实验，并且我看不到床平衡实际上有任何差异。我实际验证的唯一变化正在变化是喷嘴高度调整。

#10

Where I live I pay 20.0usd for esun ABS and 60.0usd per kg of tiertime filament.

我还没有打印任何TPU。我在玻璃上打印了一个pla打印，它的工作正常。我所做的是自动水平看每个角落在软件中得到了多少（upstudio）。然后进入并使用加热床下的旋钮来调整水平。重新运行自动调平程序，然后检查它的级别。重复直到您在0.1毫米内获得级别。这样它就是物理水平。然后，我将以非常小的增量手动调整第一层高度。适合我。

#11

我有一个盒子，经营很多eSun ABS以及ColorFabb XT。我没有使用它的储物挤出机与它的储物机没有任何问题，现在标记为上升300的“ABS”挤出机。

You’re right, the cold end of the extruder throat area does get too hot as well as the stepper motor heat transfer, to print lower temperature materials like PLA and even PETG for more than a few hours.
I retrofit the PLA nozzle heater and it’s heatsink to my ABS extruder along with the PLA extruder cover and larger fan that Tiertime use, when I print these lower temperature materials, it works a lot better especially for longer prints, but definitely makes a difference.

我假设你已经尝试过你的PLA挤出机，你的UP300随之而来，没有太好运气吗？我很惊讶这应该是这种情况以及在长期印刷期间的埃森ABS干扰。也许清理挤出机组件并粘在一个新的喷嘴上，看看会发生什么。

#12

我已经弄清楚了为什么经常发生干扰。当它确实堵塞时，我通常只是卸载，加载周期，它会回来。如果这不起作用，我必须得到一点铜丝线，在装载时将其推到喷嘴孔里，以清除任何阻挡喷嘴孔，并再次进入任何堵塞。我正在注意储存垃圾箱中的短管轴，以防止灰尘，但也许它被颗粒污染，颗粒堵塞了喷嘴一些怎么样？

我在UP300上没有多少钱。我有一个prusa i3 mk2，而且我更宁愿使用它，并在我可以帮助它时避免upstudio。让不要潜入这里的蠕虫，哈哈 - 我已经讨论了另一个线程的长度的主题。

So frankly I’m not too sure why I’m having a low success rate.
可能是其中任何一个：

  1. filament has contamination in the plastic
  2. 它在存储/使用（我的故障）之间受到污染
  3. 温热的设计不可能以某种方式可靠。

Most likely its no.2 but after having had a spool that should have never passed esun quality control (0.5mm diameter to 1.75mm) I wonder if no. 1 is possible since I’m very aware of how I store the spools and have a separate storage box for them.

也许有喷嘴中的碳堆积/垃圾，周期性地开始进入喷嘴。当它变得伟大的时候，我可能能够通过它放一整个卷轴。其他时候它每1-3小时的使用时堵塞。

#13

嗨jothamb。当您绝缘时，您的机箱您是否做了任何拆卸或只是绝缘曲面您可以轻松实现？

此致，
Rodney

#14

I just did the surfaces I could get to which was all of them with some effort. Took me a afternoon.

#15

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还有一些图片如何用200w的PID控制加热器更换空气过滤器，以保持内部温度稳定。它还具有热熔保险丝，内联符合以防情况下出现问题。

实际上我确实脱掉了左边的面板，以得到那个完成。

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#16

谢谢你的照片，有帮助很多！我真的很喜欢增加的加热器想法，但我真的不想删除过滤器以添加一个，尽管这是一个非常清洁的安装。

#17

So I went ahead and did a thing yesterday…

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我甲肝病毒e insulation on the way. Oh, and also a Duet 2 WiFi. I’m not going back to the 80’s and use a command line driven piece of software to run what was supposed to be a workhorse type printer.

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#18

看起来太棒了!你把整件事下来吗?我甲肝病毒en’t worked out how to do it quiet that far yet.

我也可能需要拾取二重奏2。我有一个斜坡1.4板坐在这里以及一些TMC静默步进司机和备用RPI。可能会进行klipper固件驱动打印机。在KLIPPER上，RPI负责监控运动计算，因此它与32位打印机板一样好。

I’m still getting regular nozzle clogs, its just not reliable at all - Looking at getting a titan aero from E3D to build my own bolt in extruder - I’d make up a connector for it so that it becomes a drop in replacement.
At that point, I could go further, and get the water cooled hotend, and if I do that, might as well water cool all the stepper motors too. It’d be able to do ABS properly even the largest of parts with zero warping. Its a real empty spot in the market, there’s no printers that I can find out there with full enclosures rated to high temperatures internally.

#19

听起来不错。如果那些将机器转换为GCODE SPACHINEIEWARE打印机，我正在仔细查看我的CPU

I’m surprised you’re getting clogs. I’ve never really got any on any machine. Machine sure you’re using quality material I guess with a dust particle filter inline to keep ditritus out the hot-end assembly.

There are high end FDM printers out there Aimed at professional users that have chambers that get up to 90°C for the use of printing high-end engineering materials such as PEEK and PEI.
看看这个…

…I’m trying to turn my UP Box into this a little. I’ve added a chamber heater that gets it around 50°C for large ABS prints.

#20

实际上拆除了这一点并不糟糕。我的第一个进球是让它与二重奏2和可靠印刷ABS一起运行。到目前为止，挤出机对我来说是可靠的。我要添加更准确的Z探头，所以我可以做网状床升级。我认为随着我所做的改变，这应该是一个非常好的打印机。这台机器的力学非常好。